About Paul Williamson

Paul is the lead operator of the Colab laser.

How to Schedule Time on the Laser

[Updated. Change of plans as requested by Colab managers.]

There is now a short online form to fill out to schedule time on the laser, which you can find by clicking on Schedule at the top of the colaser.org web page. The form goes directly to a Colab volunteer, who will try to respond promptly (usually within a few hours). The volunteer will try to arrange for a Colab key holder to be available to open the building for you. If that’s not possible at your requested time, they’ll work with you to find a mutually agreeable time when you can use the laser.

The Google Calendar is now read-only, and gives you a view of what times have already been reserved or blocked out. You can view the calendar by clicking on Schedule at the top of the colaser.org web page, or directly by following this calendar link. On that view you’ll find a button to add the calendar to your own calendar, if you wish.

The Google Group I previously set up to provide access to the calendar is no longer needed for that purpose, since the scheduling volunteer will update the calendar.

Please schedule the time you need, as far in advance as you can. The Colab key holders are happy to arrange a convenient time for you, but they can’t be expected to show up right away without advance notice. If you’re already at Colab and the laser isn’t already scheduled for someone else, you can ask any key holder who happens to be available if they can let you use the laser.

If you can’t make it at the scheduled time, please do your best to let us know. The scheduling volunteer will let you know who to contact if you need to cancel.

In the future, we hope to have regular open hours when you can be sure Colab is available, and a fully automated way to schedule time on the laser during those hours. In the meantime, and for hours when Colab wouldn’t otherwise be open, going through the scheduling volunteer lets you get time on the laser and access to the building in a single step.

Crud on Autofocus Probe

If the autofocus probe is covered with black tarry goo (see photo) at the end of your job, you’re cutting something that makes too much smoke and soot. If you can’t adjust your settings to avoid this kind of smoke and soot, please avoid using that material again. That same crud will land on the optics and cause another expensive repair.

Contaminated autofocus probe.

Contaminated autofocus probe.

Third Class Scheduled

A third class for this month has been scheduled for Thursday, November 20, at 7pm at Colab.

Please email me paul@mustbeart.com to reserve your place in the class. Because the laser room is small, the class size is limited to 6.

Expect about 90 minutes in the classroom, followed by practical hands-on exercises in the laser room. Once you complete the class, you’ll be able to schedule time on the laser to do your own projects.

Update: this class is full. Waiting list open. When would be a good time for more classes?

Classes scheduled

Basic laser operation and safety classes are scheduled for this coming Sunday, November 9 at noon, and the following Thursday, November 13, at 7pm.

Please email me paul@mustbeart.com to reserve your place in the class. Because the laser room is small, the class size is limited to 6.

Expect about 90 minutes in the classroom, followed by practical hands-on exercises in the laser room. Once you complete the class, you’ll be able to schedule time on the laser to do your own projects.

Update: Thursday’s class is full already. I will accept a few wait-list entries. More classes will be scheduled soon.

Laser is Fixed!

The replacement mirrors and lens arrived this morning, and I got them installed and working this afternoon. The laser is functional again, maybe even a little better than before. Let the artmaking resume!

I replaced mirror 2 (which might have been OK), mirror 3 (which was trashed), and the focus lens (which was destroyed). Did a full alignment on the optics, and a rough spot-check on the table leveling.

People have noticed that the laser seems weaker on the lower right and works best in the upper left region of the work area. It’s normal for there to be some small differential, because of the longer beam path to reach the lower right, but it was much worse than normal. I think it’s improved now. A cut that worked at speed 17 in the upper left required a speed of 13 in the lower right.

The new lens has a slightly different focus point than the old lens, for whatever reason. I have adjusted the autofocus probe to what seems to be the best focus point for the new lens. If you prefer to measure, you’ll find the new focus point is several millimeters longer than before. That is, the table is a bit lower with respect to the cutting head.

People have had trouble cutting half-inch plywood. I was able to cut a small square out of half-inch plywood today, in a single pass at speed 17 (or 13 in the lower right corner) at 100% power. There was some charring on the edge of the wood, but nothing that wouldn’t sand off. The only trick I used was to focus a bit down into the material, instead of at the surface. The Z axis setting I used was about where the autofocus probe touches the material, but that was just an educated guess. You’ll still need to experiment with settings and focus heights to find a configuration that works with your specific plywood.

I still think we can get better cutting of thick plywood (half-inch and maybe thicker) by getting a stronger air-assist compressor. I’ll look into that soon.

I hope to see you and your laser-cut art at YOUtopia!

Laser is broken

The laser is offline for repairs. Replacement parts are expected to arrive on Wednesday, October 8, and if all goes well I’ll get them installed on Thursday. Apologies to those of you planning to use the laser in the next few days for last-minute YOUtopia projects.

In the photo gallery below, you can see the damage. The zinc selenide lens has a hole blasted in it, and most of the surface of the final mirror (a few inches above the lens) has been ruined, with the worst damage in one localized area. These parts need to be replaced (about $300). Besides that, there’s a notch out of the aluminum mirror holder at the top of the cutting head. That won’t cause any problems, as far as I know. There was also a coating of reddish powder on the inside of the tube between the mirror and lens, which I presume to be oxides of the material blasted out of the lens.

I am not sure exactly what happened. Clearly, the laser beam itself did all this damage, but what went wrong first, and are all three types of damage the result of the same sequence of events? I don’t know. There are basically two things that can go wrong: gross misalignment, causing the laser to hit the holder instead of the mirror, or crud on the mirror and/or lens. I didn’t find any gross misalignment when I checked, so I suspect there was crud on the mirror and lens.

If there was crud on the optics, it was probably a build-up of smoke deposited by burning plywood. If there’s crud anywhere on the optics when the laser passes through, it gets hot, possibly burns, and damages or destroys the optical surface it’s on. Once the optics are damaged, the laser beam can bounce around unpredictably and cause additional damage. Once the surfaces are no longer pristine, the heat left behind by the laser beam causes the damage to accelerate quickly.

Put this down as a lesson learned about keeping the laser’s optics clean. I will try to do more preventative maintenance, but every laser user needs to be aware of the issue. At the beginning of your laser session, shine a flashlight at the mirror in the cutting head (look sideways at the left side of the top of the head) and see if there’s any visible crud on the mirror. If you see any, you can clean it (if you know how to clean it without causing damage!) or stop and report the issue.

If you end up making a lot of smoke during your laser session, please inspect the mirror again at the end. Make a note in the log. Post a note to warn the next users. Let me know if the mirror needs cleaning.

Unfortunately, the lens can’t be inspected without taking things apart, so I don’t recommend you do that routinely.

If you notice the laser isn’t behaving as expected, please let me know directly. Email is best (my address is on the wall). Make a note in the log book, too. Sometimes we can catch a problem and fix it before it causes permanent damage to the optics.

Maximum Material Width < 48"

I thought I could fit a 48-inch wide piece of material onto the laser’s knife table (removing the honeycomb table that usually sits on top of it). After all, it’s supposed to be a 48×36-inch laser, right?

Actually, no. If you lower the Z axis a bit, the 48″ material can be fit in between the walls of the chamber. But when you raise the Z axis to focus on the material, it hangs up on the lip surrounding the table. This makes a horrifying noise, and very likely screws up the leveling alignment of the table, and could damage the Z axis mechanism.

Try to avoid doing that!

The laser is more accurately described as a 1200x900mm machine. That works out to 47.24″ x 35.43″. And in reality, the X/Y positioning system can’t even quite cover that entire area. It can really do 47.24″ wide, but the Y positioner only spans 35.19″.

And if you have the honeycomb mesh on the table, which you usually will, your material has to stay inside the frame that holds the honeycomb. Those dimensions are 45.875″x34″.

All numbers above are approximate. Leave plenty of margin if you can.

Vector Lines Cutting Twice

I caught the laser tracing over each vector twice. That takes twice as long, and adds extra charring and/or lost material.

You can see the double cutting without actually running the laser by changing the mode to Simulate Vector and then hitting Go. Watch the red dot and see if it’s doing the wrong thing, as it was for me.

What’s going on here? The problem, in my case anyway, was easily fixed once I figured it out. The object was set to have an Outline property of 0.5 points. That’s a skinny line, but it has a width. When CorelDraw prints a line like that to the laser, it encodes it twice, once for each edge of the line. This is very nearly invisible and undetectable on the Vector tab of Retina Engrave 3D, unless you run the simulation. The solution is to set the Outline property to Hairline. That makes each line have zero width, and so it only gets one pass of the laser. That’s probably what you want.

Getting Raster Data out of Vector Drawings

Today I struggled to get raster data out of CorelDraw and into the laser software, Retina Engrave 3D. It’s supposed to work, but I was consistently getting a blank screen on the Raster Engrave tab.

I hope there’s a better way, but here’s what worked for me: I exported the drawing to PDF, opened the PDF file with Adobe Reader, and printed to the Full Spectrum Engineering Driver from Adobe Reader.

In my case, the data I wanted to raster was actually text in a strange font. For the PDF trick to work for text, I had to install the font on the Colaser computer. I might have been able to work around that by converting the text to curves in CorelDraw, but once I found a combination that worked I was anxious to actually make some parts.

I also figured out that if you hit the J key to run a box on the laser, the software will forget that you had it set to Raster then Vector mode. If you set Raster then Vector mode and immediately hit G (or the play button on screen) then it really does raster then vector, as advertised.