Laser is Fixed!

The replacement mirrors and lens arrived this morning, and I got them installed and working this afternoon. The laser is functional again, maybe even a little better than before. Let the artmaking resume!

I replaced mirror 2 (which might have been OK), mirror 3 (which was trashed), and the focus lens (which was destroyed). Did a full alignment on the optics, and a rough spot-check on the table leveling.

People have noticed that the laser seems weaker on the lower right and works best in the upper left region of the work area. It’s normal for there to be some small differential, because of the longer beam path to reach the lower right, but it was much worse than normal. I think it’s improved now. A cut that worked at speed 17 in the upper left required a speed of 13 in the lower right.

The new lens has a slightly different focus point than the old lens, for whatever reason. I have adjusted the autofocus probe to what seems to be the best focus point for the new lens. If you prefer to measure, you’ll find the new focus point is several millimeters longer than before. That is, the table is a bit lower with respect to the cutting head.

People have had trouble cutting half-inch plywood. I was able to cut a small square out of half-inch plywood today, in a single pass at speed 17 (or 13 in the lower right corner) at 100% power. There was some charring on the edge of the wood, but nothing that wouldn’t sand off. The only trick I used was to focus a bit down into the material, instead of at the surface. The Z axis setting I used was about where the autofocus probe touches the material, but that was just an educated guess. You’ll still need to experiment with settings and focus heights to find a configuration that works with your specific plywood.

I still think we can get better cutting of thick plywood (half-inch and maybe thicker) by getting a stronger air-assist compressor. I’ll look into that soon.

I hope to see you and your laser-cut art at YOUtopia!

Laser is broken

The laser is offline for repairs. Replacement parts are expected to arrive on Wednesday, October 8, and if all goes well I’ll get them installed on Thursday. Apologies to those of you planning to use the laser in the next few days for last-minute YOUtopia projects.

In the photo gallery below, you can see the damage. The zinc selenide lens has a hole blasted in it, and most of the surface of the final mirror (a few inches above the lens) has been ruined, with the worst damage in one localized area. These parts need to be replaced (about $300). Besides that, there’s a notch out of the aluminum mirror holder at the top of the cutting head. That won’t cause any problems, as far as I know. There was also a coating of reddish powder on the inside of the tube between the mirror and lens, which I presume to be oxides of the material blasted out of the lens.

I am not sure exactly what happened. Clearly, the laser beam itself did all this damage, but what went wrong first, and are all three types of damage the result of the same sequence of events? I don’t know. There are basically two things that can go wrong: gross misalignment, causing the laser to hit the holder instead of the mirror, or crud on the mirror and/or lens. I didn’t find any gross misalignment when I checked, so I suspect there was crud on the mirror and lens.

If there was crud on the optics, it was probably a build-up of smoke deposited by burning plywood. If there’s crud anywhere on the optics when the laser passes through, it gets hot, possibly burns, and damages or destroys the optical surface it’s on. Once the optics are damaged, the laser beam can bounce around unpredictably and cause additional damage. Once the surfaces are no longer pristine, the heat left behind by the laser beam causes the damage to accelerate quickly.

Put this down as a lesson learned about keeping the laser’s optics clean. I will try to do more preventative maintenance, but every laser user needs to be aware of the issue. At the beginning of your laser session, shine a flashlight at the mirror in the cutting head (look sideways at the left side of the top of the head) and see if there’s any visible crud on the mirror. If you see any, you can clean it (if you know how to clean it without causing damage!) or stop and report the issue.

If you end up making a lot of smoke during your laser session, please inspect the mirror again at the end. Make a note in the log. Post a note to warn the next users. Let me know if the mirror needs cleaning.

Unfortunately, the lens can’t be inspected without taking things apart, so I don’t recommend you do that routinely.

If you notice the laser isn’t behaving as expected, please let me know directly. Email is best (my address is on the wall). Make a note in the log book, too. Sometimes we can catch a problem and fix it before it causes permanent damage to the optics.

Maximum Material Width < 48"

I thought I could fit a 48-inch wide piece of material onto the laser’s knife table (removing the honeycomb table that usually sits on top of it). After all, it’s supposed to be a 48×36-inch laser, right?

Actually, no. If you lower the Z axis a bit, the 48″ material can be fit in between the walls of the chamber. But when you raise the Z axis to focus on the material, it hangs up on the lip surrounding the table. This makes a horrifying noise, and very likely screws up the leveling alignment of the table, and could damage the Z axis mechanism.

Try to avoid doing that!

The laser is more accurately described as a 1200x900mm machine. That works out to 47.24″ x 35.43″. And in reality, the X/Y positioning system can’t even quite cover that entire area. It can really do 47.24″ wide, but the Y positioner only spans 35.19″.

And if you have the honeycomb mesh on the table, which you usually will, your material has to stay inside the frame that holds the honeycomb. Those dimensions are 45.875″x34″.

All numbers above are approximate. Leave plenty of margin if you can.

Vector Lines Cutting Twice

I caught the laser tracing over each vector twice. That takes twice as long, and adds extra charring and/or lost material.

You can see the double cutting without actually running the laser by changing the mode to Simulate Vector and then hitting Go. Watch the red dot and see if it’s doing the wrong thing, as it was for me.

What’s going on here? The problem, in my case anyway, was easily fixed once I figured it out. The object was set to have an Outline property of 0.5 points. That’s a skinny line, but it has a width. When CorelDraw prints a line like that to the laser, it encodes it twice, once for each edge of the line. This is very nearly invisible and undetectable on the Vector tab of Retina Engrave 3D, unless you run the simulation. The solution is to set the Outline property to Hairline. That makes each line have zero width, and so it only gets one pass of the laser. That’s probably what you want.

Getting Raster Data out of Vector Drawings

Today I struggled to get raster data out of CorelDraw and into the laser software, Retina Engrave 3D. It’s supposed to work, but I was consistently getting a blank screen on the Raster Engrave tab.

I hope there’s a better way, but here’s what worked for me: I exported the drawing to PDF, opened the PDF file with Adobe Reader, and printed to the Full Spectrum Engineering Driver from Adobe Reader.

In my case, the data I wanted to raster was actually text in a strange font. For the PDF trick to work for text, I had to install the font on the Colaser computer. I might have been able to work around that by converting the text to curves in CorelDraw, but once I found a combination that worked I was anxious to actually make some parts.

I also figured out that if you hit the J key to run a box on the laser, the software will forget that you had it set to Raster then Vector mode. If you set Raster then Vector mode and immediately hit G (or the play button on screen) then it really does raster then vector, as advertised.

Kerf size for finger joints

Finger joints, such as the ones used by the web-based box designer at http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com, depend on accurate dimensions to provide a tight fit. If you take the standard settings, it assumes that the parts are cut out with no loss of material. Since there is always some loss, that creates a box that fits together, but loosely.

To get a tight fit, you need to click on Advanced Options and enter the real kerf width where it says Cut Width.

I ran some tests with quarter-inch acrylic (pretty typical for boxes) and found that a Cut Width of 0.005″ is about right for our laser today. That’s right in the middle of what the web page says are typical values. You can probably get away with just using 0.005 for your project. Of course, if you need the best fit, you’ll have to run your own tests on your material on the day you’re cutting it.

You’ll also want to use an accurate setting for Material Thickness. It turns out that quarter-inch acrylic is nominally 0.22″, and half-inch is 0.472″, and both of those numbers vary a bit. For perfect results, use a micrometer on your material.

Laser cut box made out of quarter-inch acrylic using a design generated by http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com

Laser cut box made out of quarter-inch acrylic using a design generated by http://boxmaker.rahulbotics.com

Rotary Adapter Arrived

We now have the rotary adapter for the laser at Colab. This enables us to engrave on cylindrical objects, including tapered cylinders such as beer glasses.

I’ll update here when I’ve tested it out. If you have an urgent job that needs the rotary adapter, let me know and we’ll try it out together.

Rotary adapter for engraving cylindrical objects on the laser.

Rotary adapter for engraving cylindrical objects on the laser.

CorelDraw X7 Installed

We now have CorelDraw Graphics Suite X7 installed on the Colaser computer. It’s a very full-featured vector drawing program, and it also comes with Photo-Paint (a bitmap editing program), PowerTrace (for converting bitmaps to vector), and a bunch of other stuff.

If you’re still trying to decide what vector drawing package to learn, CorelDraw is a reasonable choice. You can get the Home & Student edition for about $130. We have the full version at Colab, since it supports more import file formats you might want to use, but for original drawings the Home & Student version is probably fine.

Laser Scheduling

Now that we have some people trained and checked out on the laser, we need a scheduling mechanism to reserve time on the laser. Eventually this should be automated and easy, but for now Meg <meggieking@gmail.com> has agreed to handle the scheduling manually. Please contact Meg to arrange time on the laser.

Between now and YouTopia, priority will be given to people working on the Temple and art projects for YouTopia. If you have other projects, let Meg know and she will still try to find a timeslot for you.

Laser Classes

Training classes to use the laser will be held at Colab on Sunday, September 14 beginning at noon, and again on Thursday, September 18 at 7pm. These two sessions may already be full; if you need to laser something before YouTopia contact Meg to see if you can get on the schedule. More classes will be scheduled as needed.

Expect to spend about 90 minutes in the classroom, followed by hands-on time in the laser loft.